1. Are both You and Your Vehicle Fit to Drive? - Weekly Checks.

Does the brake pedal feel firm to your foot, and is the handbrake connected? With the brake pedal depressed, release the handbrake then re-apply it. If the connecting cable is broken, the lever will raise with very little resistance. Do the dashboard warning lights all work? A blown warning light bulb will not be able to alert you to a problem. Have you sufficient fuel for your intended journey?

Try your brakes well before the first junction to check that they are working and the vehicle slows in straight line. If it pulls to one side, or you are in any doubt about their efficiency, get them checked as soon as you are able.

Beware of complacency - many collisions occur near to the driver's home or work place, probably due to the "switch off" factor. Just because there has never been a problem before in that area does not mean that it can't happen to-day, so be alert at all times!

Driving and riding well doesn't just mean mechanical skills - we need at all times to aware of the shortcomings of other road users. Whether others are doing their best, have lost concentration or are driving downright badly, having a crash, which is "the fault of another", may not save us from damage and injury!

The ability to control the position and speed of the vehicle safely, systematically and smoothly, using road and traffic conditions to make reasonable progress unobtrusively, with skill and responsibility. A positive but courteous attitude and a high standard of driving competence, based on concentration, effective all round observation, anticipation and planning, coordinated with good handling skills. The vehicle should always be at the right place on the road at the right time, travelling at the right speed, with the correct gear engaged and can always be stopped safely in the distance that can be seen to be clear.

Systematically: Having a practised "system" or sequence of events to be considered on the approach to any hazard, enabling the driver or rider to be able to deal with any problem. The recommended sequence is

Information - Position - Speed - Gear - Acceleration. We will examine these later in detail.

Smoothly.

a) Road Signs. When driving, every time you see a road sign, just tell yourself what it means, for example "Warning, junction right", "slippery road", "no right turn" etc. If you find one you don't know, make it your business to discover what it means. Do you have an up to date Highway Code, which is excellent value at £1.49? The Law requires drivers to know its contents and pleading ignorance when stopped by the Police will not help! The latest copies are light blue with a circular "hazard line" logo on the cover. (Do you know what a hazard warning line is?). How about buying a copy of "Know Your Traffic Signs" (99 pages for £3), which has more signs than The Highway Code.

b) Commentary. Try talking when driving, firstly about what you see, and then develop this with what you are doing. This may feel difficult at first but most people find they can manage this with a little practice. If you don't want to be seen "talking to yourself" try just "thinking" it, although you will see many drivers singing along to their radios, so why worry?

6. Observation, Anticipation and Planning.

"The Truth is Out There" is the motto of a well-known television drama series, and it applies equally well to driving. We need to realise that our brains are able to "guess" or make assumptions about what we see, which may be incorrect. Drivers should look and look again to see what is there and assess its potential. For example, you see a pedestrian on the footpath but, if you look again, you may notice that he is staggering slightly, which may cause you a problem. How about the vehicle approaching from a junction on the left? Is it slowing down and is the driver looking at you?

Anticipation - "What may happen next?"

This is an excellent question for drivers and riders to ask themselves. Guessing the possible outcome of any traffic situation is a good way of being alert to the possibilities. This should not frighten you, but give you confidence to deal with any problem that may be posed by the actions of others. Will the pedestrian stumble into the road? Will the approaching car stop at the 'give way' line?

Planning - "What will I do about it?"

A good motoring definition is "Anything which may* make you change speed or direction".

Hazards can be classed into three:

1. Fixed hazards, such as the road layout - bends and junctions etc.
2. Movable or moving hazards, such as parked or moving vehicles, pedestrians and cyclists.
3. Weather and road conditions - wind, rain, dazzling sun, wet road, slippery after a long dry spell.

For example, you approach a wide, open, cross roads and can see that there is no person or vehicle in the vicinity or approaching. You may, quite properly, decide to remain at 60 mph in 5th gear. However, if a vehicle overtakes you then brakes before the junction the situation changes. Despite seeing no signal, you should consider if it will turn left or right. Do you now need to ease off the accelerator, brake or change down a gear?

Do Hazards cause road crashes?

Each of these features should be considered (but not necessarily changed) on the approach to any hazard.

a) Information. This should occur throughout your driving, both giving information and receiving it. We Give information in various ways - the speed and position of our vehicle, indicator signals, brake lights etc.

We also similarly Receive information using all of our senses, but mainly eyesight. Where should we look? The answer must be "everywhere". Many drivers do not look far enough ahead, or fix their vision too long on one object. If you consider and use the term "scanning" this summarises a good driver / rider's vision. Be aware that we are unable to focus everywhere at once so make a regular conscious change by looking in turn at the distance, remembering that with fast traffic on Motorways you will very soon come upon a stoppage. Then look in the middle distance, followed by the foreground, then both sides and mirrors. To complete the picture; consider what you are seeing, not only other road users, but road layout, and condition of the road surface, and weather. Ask yourself which information do you consider the safest to believe - a vehicle's signals or its speed and position? An indicator may have been left on in error so cannot be relied upon.

Each of these features should be considered (but not necessarily changed) on the approach to any hazard.

b) Position

On approaching a hazard we need to first check our mirrors (taking information), consider a signal (giving information), then take the best lateral position of the vehicle, that is how far left or right we wish to be. For instance, when turning right into a junction a position towards the centre line is usually best, but should always be subject to approaching wide vehicles and parked cars.

Be careful not to cut the corner on right turns. If there is a fast approaching vehicle in the junction you will be on his side of the road and collision may be blamed on you!

Learner drivers are, quite properly, usually taught to keep an even distance from the kerbside but, with experience, we can consider using more road to better advantage.

For right hand bends a position towards the left of the road will give an earlier view around the corner, but you will need to modify this at times to stay away from drains, roadside gravel, junctions, cyclists and pedestrians.

Each of these features should be considered (but not necessarily changed) on the approach to any hazard.

c) Speed

Before arriving at the hazard and before any gear change, we need to consider an adjustment to our speed, which will usually be slower, but do remember to check your mirrors first (taking information). Smoothness and economy are helped by early deceleration, and remember that, not only is this more comfortable, but the less brakes are used, the more we save fuel. If early deceleration is not enough, the brakes are needed but do remember to use them when travelling in a straight line and progressively - start off gently, increase the pressure then release them gently. Even if you do not need to use the brakes, checking your mirrors may reveal a vehicle approaching from behind so how about giving a gentle touch to the pedal to display your brake lights (giving information)?

Each of these features should be considered (but not necessarily changed) on the approach to any hazard.

d) Gear

Once the correct speed has been attained for the hazard, we need to consider the appropriate gear, which will usually be a lower one. We may omit one or more gears by way of a "block change" e.g. 5th to 3rd, 4th to 2nd or even 5th to 1st on the approach. However if, for example, the hazard is a roundabout and before it is a bend, cyclist or junction, these should be considered as separate hazards and an appropriate speed and gear selected before reaching them.

We need to make a smooth downward gear change, with swiftness of the change being more important on an uphill to maintain speed. In order to do this, an increase in engine revs. before the gear selection is best. I will use the driving instructors' simple term "gas" to mean accelerator control, so covering both four and two wheeled vehicles.

The commonly heard "blip" of the gas, with the revs. being lost before the clutch is re-engaged is not efficient. There are two ways to ensure the correct revs. are achieved for a change down:

1. Release the gas, de-clutch, and increase the revs., then select the lower gear and re-engage the clutch.
2. Maintain the gas level, when de-clutching will immediately raise the revs., enabling a very swift gear change and smooth clutch re-engagement. This method is best first tried with most vehicles at 40 mph with a change from 4th to 3rd. Practice will improve confidence and efficiency.

12. The System of Vehicle Control

Each of these features should be considered (but not necessarily changed) on the approach to any hazard.

e) Balance and Acceleration

If we enter a corner with a constant gas (accelerator) setting, the extra friction caused by the turning of the front wheels will reduce the speed and cause an imbalance of the vehicle towards the front and outside of the bend as the steering is turned. This imbalance can be uncomfortable for passengers, is not good for tyre and suspension wear and may induce a slide in slippery conditions.

For a constant speed to maintain balance we need to increase the gas as we steer. This will initially feel strange, as this is normally used go faster and our natural feeling is "We don't want to go faster around this bend"! However, providing that we have achieved the correct speed on the straight before the hazard ("Can we stop safely in the distance seen to be clear?"), increasing the gas will just balance the vehicle to increase comfort and safety.

Try saying to yourself "ease and squeeze" as you ease off the gas before the bend, then squeeze it as you steer, or "steer and gas, more steer, more gas", particularly on a tightening bend as the gas needs to increase in proportion to the extra steering.

You will know when this is achieved as your vehicle will feel more comfortable and "settled" through the bend. Practice will improve confidence.

We should always drive with economy by gentle acceleration, early easing off the gas before gentle braking, using flexible gears by not changing up too soon to avoid labouring the engine, anticipating hills and bends and by not using gears to slow the vehicle.

However, to earn the title of "Advanced Driver", we need to use higher speeds within the Law and safety, but remembering to adjust our driving to the road, weather and traffic conditions and to suit the needs of loads and passengers. We also need to consider our own abilities when, with increasing age or illness, our observation, anticipation and reactions may become slower.

People are "designed" to travel at running speed, perhaps around 10 mph, but we drive at speeds of up to 70 mph, so have to learn to adapt our thinking and reactions. If our driving is usually sedate, but we then take a sick person urgently to hospital we will probably want to drive faster. Our potential life saving journey may then become a life threatening one!

Skills of reading bends and driving smoothly through corners need to be enhanced at higher speeds and the results of bad planning are more readily felt, so the learning process is quicker. Good, safe and economic progress will add to our enjoyment of driving.

As the vehicle in front passes any marker - road sign, cats-eye etc., try saying "Only a fool breaks the two second rule". If we reach that point whilst still speaking, we are too close. Remember that this is the minimum safe distance only on a dry road - to be at least doubled to four seconds in the wet. Some motorways have chevrons with signs "Keep apart 2 chevrons" but this is only enough at 70mph on dry roads, so we need at least three chevrons when wet. Keeping a safe distance by just easing off the gas when everyone else is braking is a fair indication that we are driving safely.

Less space can mean we have left less than our thinking distance which, at 70 mph, is 70 feet (21 metres) - over 5 car lengths! If there is sharp braking ahead, we will hit the vehicle in front before even thinking about braking! Unfortunately, some drivers overtake and pull in front too soon, and this occurs more often with the 4 second gap in the wet, so we must drop back. However, we can reassure ourselves. Imagine 20 cars parked on the hardshoulder with their driving gaps and estimate how long we would take to pass them at 70mph. Answer? Just seconds - a small delay to pay for safety.

16. Overtaking at Junctions

Such caution is critical when there is a pedestrian crossing near the junction. Overtaking on a crossing is not only extremely dangerous but is a specific offence, which can attract a minimum penalty of £60 and three penalty points. Even worse, it may result in the death or serious injury or anyone on the crossing. When turning left we should watch out for pedestrians crossing the mouth of the junction and give priority to those who have started to cross.

If the road is not wide enough to allow the passage of a fire engine without footpath parking should you consider parking elsewhere? Remembering the plight of blind people, wheelchair users and parents with pushchairs should assist drivers to choose a more reasonable place to park.

Did you know that footpaths are not designed to support motor vehicles, so a bill from the council for damage is another possibility, especially for a heavy vehicle!

If you have a garage that is full of unnecessary items, could a visit to the council skip be an answer? If your vehicle insurance is based on the claim that it is garaged overnight, they may refuse to pay in the event of its theft from a driveway or road! If you don't have a driveway, is there room in your front or back garden to construct one?

With the pedal up (motorcycle lever released) the clutch is engaged by strong springs between the smooth surfaces of the engine flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. The disc cannot slip against either surface so the engine is "locked" to the transmission. The disc centre is coupled to the transmission, so rotation of the disc is transferred to the wheels.

Full depression of the pedal (lever) to disengage the clutch will stop any transfer of motion. This is used to select a gear with a running engine and stationary vehicle.

The compression is decreased by depression of the clutch pedal. When reduced sufficiently, the clutch plate starts to "slip" and so transfers less of the engine rotation. Allowing the clutch pedal to rise increases the compression and the plate starts to transfer a larger proportion of the engine's rotation to the wheels.

Between full engagement and disengagement the plate rubs against both the engine flywheel and the pressure plate, transferring a variable amount of motion by "slipping". Over-use causes excessive wear of the plate's friction material. Placing the palms of your hands together and repeatedly twisting your arms in opposite directions, will soon generate heat. A slipping vehicle clutch causes far more heat, and, in time, will cause the friction material to wear badly - and eventually burn with a nasty smell! Additional damage is caused by weakening of the pressure springs by heat transference, so they may become too weak to stop clutch slip with the pedal released! Whilst a brief amount of slip is required when moving off, particularly uphill - use of the clutch to "hold" a vehicle at rest on an incline is to be avoided or, at least, minimised to a second or two.

The salesman's claim: "Leave it in 'Drive' all day", although feasible and reassuring to a potential purchaser, is a little simplistic. To retain the best control and to pass the Advanced Driving Test in an automatic drivers needs to show some use of manual selection.

Many modern automatics will not allow selection of 'Drive' from neutral without footbrake pedal pressure as this is needed to prevent 'creep', particularly with a cold engine running faster on the choke, but this is important to remember on older models.

As an automatic has a little delay before the drive is taken up, use the 'gas' pedal very gently from standstill to avoid a sudden surge in speed and excess fuel consumption.

When stopped in traffic, leave in 'Drive', as no wear is taking place, but applying the handbrake is best for safety and to avoid dazzling those behind. When waiting using the brake pedal, if struck firmly from the rear, the foot will leave the brake pedal and may land on the 'gas' with potential disaster! However, if a vehicles approaches quickly from behind, continuous or flashing brake lights can be a useful signal.

To retain better control, lower ratios or "lock down" should be considered in the following situations:

Downhill - to maintain speed, as with a manual vehicle. A series of bends and large roundabouts - to balance the vehicle. On small roundabouts, the lower speed will automatically ensure the best gear selection.

On single bends try to obtain a downwards change at the point you select, by slightly firmer gas pedal pressure.

To stay safe, we need to avoid collisions with careless people and their vehicles and, in order to this, we need to give ourselves time and space. We should look inside the vehicles for anyone who may open the door or drive off, remembering that the "tick" of hazard flashers may be mistaken for an intended right turn signal by the driver.

We won't see the heads of small children but can we see feet under the vehicle? Allowing a car door's width when passing parked vehicles will give us room to avoid a carelessly opened door and also a better view between vehicles for those lurking pedestrians. If traffic is heavy it won't always be reasonable to wait for a gap in opposing traffic so, if we need to drive closer, the speed needs to be much reduced and the use of the horn considered if anyone is likely to emerge. However, let's remember that some may be playing loud music or be hard of hearing so it is best to always brake just in case the horn is not heard. As many only use the horn as a rebuke, it is best followed with a "thank you" wave when we often see a frown turn to a smile then, as they wave back a puzzled look as they wonder "Do I know him?" - but at least they have stopped hating us!

When joining a motorway we need to adjust our speed to merge with that of traffic in lane one, which will usually be around 60mph, unless uphill.

An early blind spot check to the right, (shoulder check or right mirror when leaning forward), before becoming parallel with the traffic, will enable us to select a safe joining gap. We then need then adjust our speed to join at a minimum time gap of 2 seconds (4 when wet), ideally without making another driver change speed or lane. An early right indicator signal will alert drivers to our intention, and many will then increase the gap or move out, but we should not rely on this. A second blind spot check is advised before moving into the running lane, using the length of the acceleration lane if needed.

The minimum following distance on a dry road can be measured by saying, as the vehicle in front passes any reference point such a road sign or cats-eye, "Only a fool breaks the two second rule". We should have finished speaking when we pass the same point. In wet conditions the gap needs to be at least doubled, so follow the last with "when the weather is poor we should then make it four". If you prefer, try counting to three with "one thousand and one, two thousand and two…" or "one elephant, two elephants…" or whatever works for you.

If someone overtakes and cuts into our safety gap we can stay calm by reassuring ourselves that it is nothing personal, just ignorance, and drop back to regain our two or four seconds. If another vehicle is following us too closely, we can again reassure ourselves that it is just ignorance, and try to change lanes. However, if that is not possible, we need to gradually increase the gap in front by easing off the gas then, when we anticipate a need to brake, just touching the pedal to display the brake lights as a warning should encourage the following driver to back off before we actually start to slow down.

Early mirror assessment is needed to judge when an overtaking opportunity is about to be lost, when a right indicator should be given, but any lane change delayed for four or five indicator ticks to enable other drivers to see and understand our intention. If a vehicle is gaining from behind it is safest to assume that the driver is unaware of our intention or does not intend to slow or move across. Gently moving towards the white lane marking may alert him and gain the desired action but we should not drive across the lane marking unless sure it is safe to do so. A headlight flash may mean that the vehicle is giving way but The Highway Code states this is only a warning of a vehicle's presence, so a check on its speed and position is essential before moving out.

This needs to be followed by a right blind spot check (shoulder check or right mirror when leaning forwards) as a safety confirmation before smoothly moving over, being particularly careful when changing from lane one into lane two, in case there is a fast moving vehicle returning there from lane three.

To judge a safe time to move back into lane one after the overtaking manoeuvre; we need ideally to wait until both headlights of the vehicle being overtaken appear in our centre rear view mirror. This will give an approximate two-second gap so, when wet, we should try to delay this further. However, as often occurs, we may decide that a greater danger exists from an impatient driver following us too closely, so may decide that a safer option is to return earlier, as we are travelling faster than the vehicle being overtaken so the gap will soon be safe again.

A left signal is not required after overtaking one vehicle but, if in an outer lane for longer, we should consider a left indicator if anyone is able to benefit. Keep this simple - if you can se another vehicle behind, give a signal. Unnecessary mirror checking to judge a closing vehicle's speed may lead to a collision in front!

We need to expect heavy lorries to slow down when going uphill and the lighter ones to overtake. Drivers of lighter vehicles should be considerate to lorry drivers who are understandably reluctant to lose speed, as it will take more time to regain it. Anticipating their need to overtake by easing off or moving out to another lane will show courtesy and should give us pride in the manner of our driving.

When the road is unknown we need to be close enough to the target to avoid losing a safe opportunity, but must avoid the common mistake of being too close so the view ahead is lost. The minimum two second safety gap will usually give us sufficient view. However, the advised minimum of four seconds on wet roads will need to be compromised when planning an overtake, but we should drop back whenever postponing the plan.

We need a flexible gear, (automatics in a lower ratio, overdrive off or 'sports mode') able to give brisk acceleration, and taking views both to the right and left of the preceding vehicle. This could involve moving to the left before a left hand bend to look between the target and the verge or moving well out to the right, without accelerating, to gain a view ahead but, if a vehicle is following us closely, we need to preserve our space by only moving half our vehicle over the white line.

Try making a list of the features that we look for. It should include road signs - warning bend, sharp deviation, SLOW on the road and change of road surface to a "super-grip" surface, usually beige in colour. The nature of the central white lines generally mean "more paint - more danger", so the longer hazard warning lines with shorter gaps will indicate a moderate bend. Double white lines probably mean a sharper bend, although they may also indicate the brow of a hill on a moderate bend. Skid marks on the approach to a bend will suggest that previous drivers have misjudged it, so it may be one of the rare tightening bends, or have a road junction in the "straight ahead" position, which often confuses.

A line if trees, lamp, telegraph or electricity posts can also indicate the line of the bend, but we need to be aware that they may occasionally follow a junction or private drive. We can look at the angle of the road as it disappears from view and ask, "Which way does it point? Using the clock face is a useful approach, an example being "Three 0'clock" meaning a right angle bend to the right, with hedgerows and kerbstones assisting us to judge this angle. We can also look at joining hedgerows. If there are two hedgerows meeting at the point of the bend it is safest to assume that the first hedge indicates the angle of the bend until we can see otherwise.

Other traffic is also a useful indication, by assessing their speed and angle around the bend. Although traffic travelling in the same direction in front can give some indication, it is safest to consider that of traffic travelling towards us as they have successfully negotiated the bend. The vehicle in front may be travelling too fast and perhaps crash, or perhaps be the farmer entering a field entrance!

As we approach the limit point it can behave in three different ways. The first is when we see more road surface appearing, which is known as "opening". The second is when there is no change of view of the road surface, so we are getting nearer, and this is known as "stationary". The third possibility, which is less common and occurs on tighter bends, is when previously seen road surface disappears from view when it is known as "closing". An early and fast opening limit point indicates a gentle bend or brow and a late and slowly opening one warns us of a sharp bend or brow.

Providing we are travelling, as we should, at the maximum safe speed of that in which we can easily stop in the distance seen to be clear, we can use this system by matching the speed of our vehicle to the speed at which the limit point moves. We may be able to maintain our speed with a quickly opening bend, but need to ease off and consider braking when approaching a stationary or closing limit point.

Despite the many other indicators of a bend discussed last week, we need to delay a gear change until the limit point starts to open as, before then, we may have wasted a gear change to third when a second then becomes appropriate. We should still just be on the straight on the approach to the bend but, for a sharp bend, a swift gear changed is required.

As the speed of the opening limit point increases, subject to speed limits, we can safely match our speed to it, sometime known as "chasing the limit point"

If approaching a slow moving hazard before the brow of a hill or bend we need to make a prompt decision whether it safe to go, as the longer we hesitate, the shorter the safety gap will become - "Early vision - early decision" can be a useful motto here, but we should also remember the old standby "If in doubt - don't"!

If we do decide to wait, a left indicator will be helpful and courteous to oncoming drivers to show that we intend to give way. Although it may be tempting to give a headlight flash or "wave on" this should be avoided as, although we may believe it is safe, there may be a hazard hidden from us, the opposing driver may hesitate and the situation may change, or another road user may believe we are signalling to them with the potential problem. If we do wave or flash and there is a collision we may be blamed and there are now many insurance companies who advertise, "No win - no fee" advice after a crash so we can expect more such claims in the future.

There will be better, and more, such views in the winter when there are less leaves on trees and bushes. However, there will often be gaps in walls and hedges and frequently the hedge has been replaced by a railing on bends, giving us a view through.

We also need to use "cross valley" views in hilly country. Once again we can often see the route ahead and be able to assess how traffic is approaching but we need always to be aware of what we cannot see in the "dead ground" at the base of the valley.

Misleading Bends

Both the road layout itself and road signs can be misleading.

Beware of the bend correctly signed as "sharp deviation right" which is immediately followed by a sharp left with no further sign. Watch for the sensible "recommended speed" for a bend followed by a higher speed limit sign just before a bend. Both can be seen on the B4203 from Great Witley to Bromyard road. Just before the Stanford Bridge sign you will see a sensibly advised "25 mph" followed by a "40" sign just before the bend! If you read the limit point as previously discussed this should not cause a problem.

We should avoid the temptation to leave the vehicle's engine running whilst unattended as, apart from being unthoughtful to neighbours, this is extremely bad for the engine wear, will be a temptation to a thief, invalidating insurance if unlocked and, if on the road, illegal.

If we drive well, at a speed and in a manner appropriate for the conditions, by attaining the correct speed for hazards and maintaining the vehicle's balance through bends, we should avoid skidding. However, we can all be surprised by sudden weather changes and by the actions of others. Skid prevention and control is best learnt on an off-road skid control centre with a qualified instructor but a few tips can be shared here.

Starting off on a slippery surface needs low engine revs., and perhaps a higher gear. Second gear or, on an automatic gearbox, "snow mode" if we have it, is worth a try. Spinning wheels are not efficient! Road conditions will vary in patches so we should allow much space from the vehicle in front. We may be driving well for the conditions, but vehicles in front may suddenly start to spin! Braking whilst travelling in a straight line, very early and very gently is advised. Some suggest slowing in snow and ice by changing down a gear and using the engine, but this must also be done on the straight and very gently as a careless clutch snatch may induce a slide.

Whenever we anticipate a possible need to slow, we need a check of mirrors. With a following vehicle we can then give an early brake light as a warning, without initially slowing down. Then, early gentle brake application can be made, with mirrors to hopefully confirm that the following vehicle is keeping its distance by also slowing down. If not, there should be time for flashing the brake lights on and off to highlight our action. Having, hopefully, brought the following vehicle under our "control" we need to then consider the one behind that one, as a collision between them will also pose the danger of a "concertina" effect onto us. If a car is following we can usually use our central mirror to see through it to confirm that the next vehicle is also "captured" and is slowing down. If not, an outside mirror may give the desired view.

If we stop at a junction, at traffic lights, or behind a queue, we should leave over a car's length in front until sure that the following vehicles have reacted, so leaving a space into which to roll to lessen the chances of a collision. We also need to consider the possibility of an escape route to the left, perhaps a grass verge or even pavement if not occupied.

Once believe safe, we then need a minimum of "tyres and tarmac" leaving enough space to see the bottom of the tyres of the vehicle in front and a small area of road surface in case of problems with that vehicle stalling or rolling back.

If we have to stop after a left hand corner, for instance at road works, we can consider a wide position towards the crown of the road, or even reversing a little, to give earlier brake or hazard flasher warning to later following traffic. Once stopped and safe we need to then consider the comfort of the driver behind by applying the handbrake and selecting neutral gear (but leave in "D" with automatics) to avoid the discomfort of unnecessary blazing brake lights.

It may be tempting to pull forward to regain the view but this may lead to the front of our vehicle protruding into the major road, or lead to a similar moving forward by the other driver and possible confrontation which needs to be avoided. The only safe way is to wait until that vehicle leaves and we are then able to re-check the view.

When we are the second vehicle to arrive, we need to consider that the view is "owned" by the first driver and so take care not to obscure it, particularly if we are driving a van or other higher vehicle with restricted views through.

We should all devise our own lists and can include the following examples. A cluster of street lights - roundabout ahead. A single lamppost - junction with emerging vehicle. No gap in trees ahead - T-junction or road bends to left or right. Gap in hedgerow - field entrance with tractor emerging. Low bridge - large vehicle approaching in the centre of the road. Industrial premises - fork lift trucks crossing the road. Parked utility van - workmen in the vicinity and another van around the corner. Pedestrian or cyclist looking behind - about to cross or turn right. Loose load on lorry - about to slide off. Tractor approaching a field entrance or farmyard - may turn into it. Occupied parked vehicles - doors opening or driving off. Bus at stop - pedestrians crossing, to and from the bus. Fresh mud on road - slow moving vehicles or animals. Post office vans, trade vehicles - stopping at likely places - post boxes, shops, garages, pubs., building sites etc. Motorway access roads - vehicles entering. Accident - others slowing to look.

We need to first develop a habit of assessing the potential for head-on collisions. Narrow country lanes are obvious choices, as there is often insufficient room for two vehicles to pass. The approach of a large slowly moving goods vehicle may lead to a frustrated driver attempting a dangerous overtake, a road junction or private driveway may have a vehicle emerging and a right hand bend may have a vehicle approaching too fast and too wide.

Having considered these possibilities we need to look for ways to avoid a collision. Driving at the recommended speed of being able to stop in the distance seen to be clear will not always protect us from vehicles emerging into our path, as slowing for every such possibility will lead to frustration to those behind. However, a compromise may be obtained by looking for escape routes. Where can we go if the anticipated vehicle appears in our path? Although braking in a straight line is the safest for vehicle stability, this may not prevent the collision. We need to avoid the natural reaction of a surprised driver to violently swerve to either side as this will destabilise the vehicle and may lead to an overturn.

An escape route can be a flat grass verge, lay-by, footpath (with no pedestrians), hedgerow (but avoid the trees), track or private drive if leading off at a gentle angle. In the event of having to make this escape, we need to beware of the natural tendency to brake on entering the verge. If two wheels are on the road and two are on the grass even ABS (anti-lock) braking systems may not be able to cope with this and the resulting skid will be into the vehicle you are attempting to avoid

If there is time, it is best to first brake very hard with both wheels on the good road surface, and then with less or no braking, steer gradually off the road at a small angle of 10 or 20 degrees to keep the vehicle as stable as possible.

These devices will activate when necessary with no driver participation required but any indicator light that they have activated should serve as a warning to drivers that we are in a critical situation so should take it as a criticism of driving technique.

The one most often misunderstood is ABS. This system monitors wheel rotation under heavy braking conditions and, if one wheel is about to lock up, the brake to that wheel is released slightly enabling it to keep turning, thereby ensuring the maximum braking effort with reduced chance of a skid. The brake is then re-applied, and this action is repeated frequently giving a vibrating feeling and sound to the brake pedal. As this is an unusual feeling and sound, the natural reaction is to stop braking which is the WRONG thing to do. Keeping firm brake pressure on is the best way to enable the ABS to do its work.

To overcome this natural reaction, whenever we change our vehicle to one with ABS, we need to find a deserted wet or gravel road and (having first checked our mirrors) hit the brakes hard to obtain the feel of the ABS. Better take an off-road skid control course, which is very useful and great fun.

Another common misconception is that ABS will stop a vehicle in a shorter distance, which is not necessarily so. The main purpose of ABS is to prevent the locking up of a wheel which makes steering ineffective, so it enables the driver to retain steering ability whilst braking hard. Imagine the scene of a child running into the path of your vehicle then "freezing". You need to hit the brakes really hard and keep them hard on, feeling the vibration of the ABS whilst you steer and hopefully miss the child.

For those without ABS, a similar technique can be applied manually to retain steering, termed "cadence braking". Hitting the brakes hard on and off repeatedly to "bounce" the vehicle to a stop will retain the steering action.

Rule 134 Highway Code 2007 states:

You should follow the signs and road markings and get into the lane as directed.
In congested road conditions do not change lanes unnecessarily.
Merging in turn is recommended but only if safe and appropriate when vehicles are
travelling at a very low speed. e.g. when approaching roadworks or a road traffic incident.
It is not recommended at high speed.

37. Common Misconceptions - The Heater

The use of the "re-circulating" setting on modern cars has its dangers. Instead of blending fresh air, the air in the cabin is re-circulated to enhance the blending effect i.e. hot air will get hotter, and chilled air will get colder. This means that the air will become stale - which, again, can lead to drowsiness. So, the re-circulating position should only be used for short periods to speed up a particular effect - or if you know you are about to pass a sewage works!

39. Tyre Sizes and Pressures

Wheeled vehicles make contact with the road through relatively small areas of rubber of each tyre. This is about the same size as the area of the palm of our hands, but only if the pressure is correct. Over inflation will fail to "spread" the patch so only the centre section of the tyre is in contact with the road.

Under inflation can be even more dangerous; although the contact patch will appear to be greater, the centre may be distorted so that it is raised off the ground and have no grip. The continuous distortion of the rotating tyres' treaded and sidewall areas will rapidly cause overheating. Overheated tyres wear faster and (after a brief period of offering additional grip as the tyre surface becomes "sticky") then offer less grip. This problem is worse when cornering. The under-supported, overworked tyre sidewalls will deflect more than they are designed to and the vehicle will start to roll onto the side of the tyre. Thus the grip will be reduced just as the tyre needs to provide the maximum. This overheating is the one that increasing the tyre pressures when travelling at sustained higher speeds or with full load is aimed at correcting.

We also need to consider driving in wet conditions. Tyre tread patterns are designed to offer a compromise between "dry" grip and the ability to channel water from the area of the contact patch. Failure to channel sufficient water results in a build up of the fluid at the leading edge of the contact patch. This "wedge" of water can start to lift that corner (or more than one corner) of the vehicle. The result is known as aquaplaning where the affected tyre(s) loose virtually all grip. Incorrect pressures will advance the onset of aquaplaning.

Regular checking with a good quality tyre pressure gauge is advised as the accuracy of those on garage forecourts varies. Having this gauge will also encourage you (or your partner / friend) to check tyre pressures more often. An error of as little as 2psi (pounds per square inch) can be considered too much and an under-inflation of 10 psi is not usually visible!

Advanced drivers are encouraged to take this further. "Roadcraft", the police drivers' handbook states: "only give a signal when another driver will benefit from it" and "give a signal whenever it could benefit other road users". Many drivers initially feel uneasy with this, preferring to "signal just in case". The purpose of the Roadcraft approach is to avoid an automatic use of indicator signals, which can lead to lack of mirror use. If, when considering a signal, we always look for a likely need of other road users, which include cyclists and pedestrians, we should increase our observation and anticipation skills.

However, some take this too far when changing lanes without signalling when there is traffic behind. Their reasoning is usually "they were far enough away not to benefit from a signal", but then followed by a long mirror check to confirm their opinion!

Simple advice on considering a signal: "if you can see someone, they can see you, so may benefit from a signal". A brief all-round look, including mirrors, is sufficient for the decision, leaving time for concentration on what is in front. Too much time spent on the mirror check, followed by considering whether or not the following vehicle is close enough or closing at a sufficient speed to benefit from a signal can be a distraction. Just because a vehicle is far behind does not discount the possibility that it may be gaining on you (legally with emergency vehicles or otherwise) at 100 mph plus. Another factor to consider when overtaking with no following traffic in view is that the driver of the vehicle being overtaken may also benefit from the added visibility of your flashing indicator, hopefully deterring a deviation whilst being passed.

The occasions when signalling is advised when no-one is in view are when turning into, or out from, a junction on, or around, a blind bend or when entering a major road from a blind junction, e.g. one with high walls or hedges up to the pavement. To summarise; "a thinking driver is a safer driver".

42. Centre Lane Misuse and “undertaking”

43. Driving Whilst Tired

43a. An alternative or follow-up? A SUMMER THOUGHT

        Now that the long hot days of summer are with us, the children are on holidays and the coast or one of the many theme parks that now exist are a constant draw. You and your partner have worked hard, so a few hours of relaxation are well deserved.

         You plan your chosen destination, a quick look at the map book, the car has been checked for the oil, water, tyres and petrol  and is roadworthy. Your family, maybe relatives are all set, safely ensconced in the car and on a bright summers morning, you are off to enjoy the open road.

         Your chosen route works well, with not too many delays and after a few hours’ driving you arrive at the chosen location. Excitement from the family  the hot morning sun, fresh air, maybe sand and sea, a myriad of experiences, await you all

           So much to see and encompass, enjoying the pleasures of your family and the many varied attractions that await you all. How quickly time goes when you are enjoying yourselves, maybe the picnic you brought has been devoured, or you have included a visit to a restaurant for a meal or just some snacks, maybe a glass of wine. All adding to the ambience of the day you are extolling.

           Alas soon it is time to prepare for the journey home, everyone accounted for. All the picnic items and the many other items that you may have brought are loaded into the car and soon you are ready for the return trip. The route is known to you, some A class roads possibly a fair strech of the motorway, it all seems so easy. Everyone is filled with thoughts of the day, all the new adventures experienced, the fresh air and the good food. You have probably not gone to many miles when the buzz of conversation form the family slowly fades away, trusting in your experience they start to doze off one by one.

           The gentle setting evening sun, coupled with the steady engine noise and the hum of the tyres on the tarmac., all add to the relaxed atmosphere in the car There are maybe a  hundred miles or so before you are all home, but you are confident in your ability.

            The warm atmosphere and the steady hum of the tyes add to the glow of relaxation, it has been a long enjoyable day, your eyes still to blink and a warm contented feeling slowly spreads The warm glow of the day, the hum of the tyres on the road and slowly ever so slowly the unseen enemy,  SLEEP  starts to creep up on you, until    without  C.R.A.S.H.   .   you have had been involved in an collision.

         Maybe someone in your family has been injured, or worse even killed, possibly an unsuspecting motorist or pedestrian has been involved as a result, all because of that gentle but so fatal error S. L. E. E.P..

                                    YOU CANNOT TURN THE CLOCK BACK
                                         DO NOT DRIVE WHEN YOU ARE
                                             TIRED  IT IS NOT WORTH IT.

44. Driving Through Water

45. Don’t Drive and Phone – even hands-free.

46. Safety Within Your Vehicle

Let us use an ordinary box of tissues and a house brick as demonstration tools. In a 30 mph collision, the box of tissues assumes the force of the house brick, so we can imagine what will happen to the loose items previously mentioned. Although the vehicle and occupants have stopped they are still travelling at 30 mph!

Regarding unrestrained passengers, do we remember the television commercial where the young lad in the back of his mother’s car without a seatbelt is thrown forward, resulting in her death?  Or perhaps the Claudia Schiffer advert where it is explained that, in a 30 mph collision, her weight can increase by as much as 25 times. My pet hate is children being carried without seat belts or child seats, and often seated in between the driver and front passenger seats.  Surely there are enough dangers facing children without the people they rely on to protect them, being ignorant or complacent about their safety. As the saying goes "if you love them, belt them up" and my advice to anyone who encounters rears seat passengers who refuse to wear a seatbelt, unless of course they are exempt, is to refuse to move the vehicle until they belt up.

Remember, although it is the driver’s legal responsibility to ensure that children under the age of 14 are properly restrained, we also have a moral responsibility towards all passengers for both their safety and ours.

Our eyes have two completely different systems for day and night vision, to deal with the enormous variation in brightness.  The bright end of vision is dealt with by the cone cells in the retina, which have 3 different pigments to absorb light, giving us colour vision.  Cones do not respond to low light levels, where vision is dependent on the retinal rod cells. Rods have only one pigment, so colour vision at low light levels is impossible.  Bright lights bleach the rod pigment, which is slowly regenerated in the dark.  Bleaching is rapid, but regeneration is slow, with full dark adaptation taking about 1 hour. We are blinder than many of us perhaps we believe.  Incidentally the cone (daylight) pigments are also bleached by the brightest of lights, but recover more rapidly, in about 10 minutes.

Two useful tips when oncoming lights are blinding
1. Close one eye to begin the regeneration process earlier (also useful when entering a dark tunnel from bright daylight.
2. Look to one side of the blinding light. This bleaches the rods at the edge of the retina, leaving the central ones, which one uses more, less affected.

Special lenses
Polarising (Polaroid) lenses are useful for eliminating glare from reflections from metallic surfaces and water, but let less light through, so are not a good idea at night. Photochromic lenses, which darken in bright sunlight, might also be thought a bad idea, but in practice they are not a problem. Any other sort of coloured lens is a bad idea at night.

Night driving increases the challenge so we need to ensure cleanliness of windscreen / motorcycle visor, windows, mirrors, lights and glasses if worn.  Smears caused by worn wiper blades are a bigger hazard at night so we need to keep them clear of grit and replace them regularly.

Eyesight should be checked at least annually to guard against the slow onset of unnoticed problems and we need a steady airflow into the vehicle to prevent misting, with air conditioning being very helpful.

The golden rule of driving at a speed at which we can easily stop in the distance seen to be clear still applies and that distance is the limit of our headlamps or that of others’.

Most vehicles now have interior “dipping” mirrors, so we need use it to prevent dazzling from behind and must not forget to avoid dazzling oncoming or preceding drivers by dipping our headlamps.  If dazzled from the front, we should reduce speed and concentrate on the left of the road to avoid the approaching beam and look for hidden hazards.

When there is nothing in front, the headlamp main beam gives the best illumination and if a following vehicle is lining up to overtake, leaving it on main beam will assist their vision until they are alongside.

Dipping our headlamps before brows of hills and bends will enable us to see more clearly the beams from approaching vehicles and the angle of the shadows cast will give is a clue to their direction. Let us also remember to look across corners for signs of approaching vehicles.

On older vehicles, when main beam is selected the dipped beam is switched off so dipping before left hand bends will give a better illumination of the edge of the road.

Aiming to have a good road map before travelling is advisable as those bought abroad are often of a pictorial type, which can omit crucial junctions.  A good local source is The Map Shop in Upton upon Severn.
Apart from knowing on which side they drive, we need to discover the local signs and rules.  Travel agents and Embassies may have useful leaflets.  Be aware of major differences, especially “priority to the right” but do ask if locals obey them, as strict compliance may invite some abuse!  The local travel representatives are useful sources of driving customs if they are drivers themselves.
Hired vehicles need careful checking in the presence of the hiring staff for damage and defects before acceptance.  The condition of lights, windscreen wipers and tyres, including the spare are prone to problems and the presence of a working jack and wheel brace is essential.
When driving on the right and emerging from junctions or roundabouts, we need to think: “Keep right and look left”.  Extra care is required when turning left because, as we are accustomed to having the kerb on our left, we are naturally tempted to cut the corner and end up on the wrong side of the road!
When we drive our own vehicle in a “keep right” country overtaking can be extremely hazardous, as our forward view is restricted.  Investing in an overtaking aid in the form of a horizontal dashboard periscope is recommended.

Some hire cars may be identified with company stickers or different registration plates.  However, irrespective of this, other drivers may not realise we are visitors and so make no allowance for our driving uncertainties and inevitable errors.

Lane discipline may be more lax and unusual vehicles, such as donkey carts, flocks of sheep and heavily laden animals and bicycles are common in some countries, often ignoring any “keep right / left” rule.

Be careful with headlamp flashing. Although the official UK meaning is “I am here”, many drivers here use this as an invitation to go.  In many countries this is frequently used to signal; “I am coming”!

A recent survey of 1,660 drivers by YouGov on behalf of Tesco Insurance revealed much road sign ignorance.  It found that drivers with over 30 years experience knew the meaning of fewer signs than those recently having passed the driving test.  Sadly, I am not surprised as, in my 14 years’ experience of giving advanced driving guidance both as a volunteer Observer and professional driver trainer I have yet to meet a driver who has initially known the meaning of every road sign passed!  The “Highway Code”, with 100 pages, contains most of the common signs and, at £1.49 remains excellent value for money.  The larger sized “Know Your Traffic Signs”, also with 100 pages has more of the unusual signs.  The meaning of road signs varies with their shape; Red triangles warn, Red circles (both with and without a diagonal line) prohibit, Blue discs give orders to do something.  Rectangles give information, with varying colours giving different meaning: direction signs are Blue for Motorways, Green for primary routes (the main “A” roads formerly “trunk roads”), white for non-primary routes, with a blue border for minor roads or destinations.  Brown is for tourist or leisure, yellow for temporary matters (diversions, new housing estates etc.) black for goods vehicles, red borders for military or government establishments.  However, just when we may believe that is simple enough, we discover that blue information signs are used on non-motorway roads, e.g. parking, escape lanes etc.! 

Agricultural vehicles can be present on the roads at all times, but they are more numerous at various times of the year – examples being harvest times for corn and sugar beet and after harvest ploughing.  We need to expect slower, larger, vehicles around every bend and over every brow of a hill.  The golden rule of  “I must be able to easily stop on my side of the road in the distance seen to be clear” is even more important at these times.

If the vehicle in front is a tractor, Landrover, horsebox etc., we need to consider whether it may turn into the next field or farmyard on the left, or especially when considering overtaking on the right.  In wet and damp weather the probable route from field to farmyard and back can often be seen by muddy tracks on the road.  Whilst this is useful, we need to remember that mud increases our stopping distance and reduces our safe cornering speed and so reduce sped accordingly.

Has the vehicle dropped a bale or two of straw or a few sugar beet?  These won’t have lights on at night!

At night - time we need to consider whether there is a vehicle drawing a trailer in front with no lights.  Perhaps the driver has recently damaged them or failed to connect them properly.

We may often use back lanes as short cuts and to avoid traffic congestion but need to remember that they have their own hazards, with the need for increased awareness and planning.

Our example is a meandering road with many hazards; blind bends, gateways, railway bridges, camp-sites and overhanging trees. Useful signs warn of the bridge height and of unsuitability for large goods vehicles.  The road is used by many commuters daily, yet regrettably few drive it safely.

On entering the road it is deceptively wide with a good surface, but not for long!  Soon lateral bumps, like tree-roots under the tarmac, start to appear. These can unsettle light vehicles and motorcycles in particular, bouncing the rider out of the seat if taken at speed.

A slight uphill is followed by trees closing in, which warn of the narrowing road and its restricted visibility.  A mirror check here is advised before easing off the throttle, allowing the gradient to slow the vehicle and to prepare for a gear change down.  This avoids a sudden panic braking when as an on-coming vehicle appears. A good road positioning to the outside of the bend is vital here, to gain the longest view into the start of the bends, one of which is almost blind and hiding on-coming traffic.

A horn warning is now appropriate, to warn other road users of our presence in the reduced visibility.  However, as many regard this as a rebuke, a “thank you” wave is advised to anyone present.

Over hanging trees now darken our view, so it is safer road at night as oncoming headlamp beams give an early warning.  However, we can consider using headlamps on all single lane roads because, on right hand bends, an approaching driver will see our left hand headlamp earlier, and before we see that vehicle.

Before a horn warning we can lower our window down to hear any reply.  However, we need to remember that many drivers have a loud radio on, so are unable to hear another road-user until too late.

The presence of trees also leads to falling branches in the wind or bits knocked off by high vehicles and to the narrowing of the lane by foliage.  It is also useful to note the wider passing places and plan when to pull in to pass others.

The road soon enters a sharp blind left hand bend, but it has a good gateway “run-off” to allow opposing vehicles to swing wide.  Some motorists prepare for this but many seem drawn to the opposite side!  Any such run-off is useful, but we need to be aware that such places are often used to illegally dump rubbish.  Parked vehicles may also block these entrances.

Next is a narrow railway bridge, including a blind double bend and a road surface often slippery with mud and deposits from spruce trees.  Our speed therefore needs to be a virtual crawl to give us the increased stopping distance.

The road is then straight, but with sump-scraped lumps, where speeding drivers have bounced their cars, and there is a refuge on the left half way along for allowing others to pass.  The road now narrows and dips as it bears left.  An early “cross-view” through the trees is needed here to catch sight of any approaching vehicle, together with consideration of a horn warning.  Mud is always present at this lowest point of the road, where there is a campsite entrance.  At weekends and holidays this is busy and can also involve walkers in the road.

We now climb to a left hand blind bend where horn or flashing lights at night is essential.   There are two spaces for cars to pass, so planning which to use is essential.   At the brow of the hill there is space either side to pass and it is here that we are likely to encounter speeding motorists who lock up wheels on the loose gravel, so it is advisable to ease off before cresting the rise.  The run down to the main road has another two passing points before houses and driveways, with their own hazards, appear when the road widens for two cars to pass. Finally one reaches the “T” junction and the last hazard.  This junction is blind to the right but there is a mirror to aid visibility.

54. Blind Spots

As car drivers and motorcyclists, we need to consider what the drivers of large vehicles cannot see.  Although many have high seat positions, their views are, nevertheless, restricted!

Although these are often referred to in The Midlands as mini-islands, whatever we call them it is a sad fact that many road users misuse them with the potential for collisions.  The white spot in the road, whether or not it is raised, is there to drive around, unless impossible because the vehicle is too large to do so.  Although many are extremely difficult to avoid driving over, they are designed to be possible to negotiate properly with a car.

When using them we need to first remind ourselves of their purpose - to slow traffic down, allowing access from junctions, with priority given to traffic entering from the right.  The Highway Code, Rule 164 states “All vehicles MUST pass round the central markings except large vehicles which are physically incapable of doing so.  Remember there is less space to manoeuvre and less time to signal. Beware of vehicles making U-turns.”

Whilst continuing to being aware of the mechanical blind spots on our vehicles and those of others, we also need to consider when other vehicles become “blind” by virtue of their position with relation to obstructions.  When we see the front of a vehicle protruding from behind a hedge or wall, particularly when on our left, we need to ask ourselves “can we see the driver?”  If the answer is “no” this means that he is unable to see us so that vehicle is “blind”.  We then need to check that vehicle for any signs of movement or likely movement.  Any slight movement of the vehicle’s body may indicate that a person has just shut a door, coupled with brakes lights, exhaust fumes and “watching the wheels” for any signs that the vehicle is moving.
 
Dealing with this common hazard should then involve not only the usual need to ensure the ability to stop in the distance seen to be clear but to ensure the stopping ability in the shorter distance likely if the “blind” vehicle moves into our path.  We also need to ensure our vehicle is in a flexible gear to enable brisk acceleration away from the danger if the approaching vehicle drives towards the side of ours.  This is the ultimate defensive action of reducing our speed ensuring our stopping ability in the event of the vehicle moving into our path.  However, this may unnecessarily inconvenience not only us, but also the following traffic.